Handunugoda Tea Estate
Situated in the hills above Koggala, this magnificent tea plantation provides extremely educational tours of the estate for free. Here, you may try over 25 different types of tea and discover the production process of the renowned Virgin White tea, a delicate brew created from the tiniest and newest leaves. The laborers here manage only 150 grams of virgin white leaves in a day, compared to the average large plantation worker who picks 23 kg of black tea. Signposted from the 131km post, it’s 6km inland from the coastal roadway.
Herman Gunaratne, a legendary figure in the island’s tea industry, owns Handunugoda. Get a copy of Gunaratne’s autobiography, The Suicide Club: A Virgin Tea Planter’s Journey, to learn more about his life, tea, and Sri Lanka from the last days of the British Raj to the present. It’s a very informative and interesting read.
Handunugoda Tea Estate: A Taste of Sri Lanka’s Liquid Gold
Nestled in the lush, rolling hills of southern Sri Lanka, just a stone’s throw from the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, lies a hidden gem that’s captivating tea enthusiasts and curious travelers alike – the Handunugoda Tea Estate. This unique plantation isn’t just another stop on the well-trodden tea tourism trail; it’s a place where tradition meets innovation, and where one of the world’s most exclusive teas is born.
A Brief History
Established in 1740, the Handunugoda Tea Estate boasts a rich history that predates many of Sri Lanka’s more famous tea regions. While the central highlands of Nuwara Eliya and Kandy are often considered the heart of Sri Lankan tea production, Handunugoda proves that exceptional tea can be grown at sea level too.
The estate was acquired by the Herman Gunaratne family in the 1950s and has since been transformed into a boutique tea garden that produces some of the island’s most sought-after teas.
The Virgin White Tea: A Royal Legacy
Handunugoda’s claim to fame is its Virgin White Tea, a brew so exclusive that it was once reserved for Chinese emperors. Legend has it that this tea was harvested by virgins who would cut the tea buds with golden scissors and collect them in golden bowls. The buds were never to be touched by human hands, as it was believed that human touch would contaminate the tea.
Today, Handunugoda continues this tradition, albeit with a modern twist. Workers wear gloves and use sterilized scissors to harvest the delicate buds, ensuring that the tea remains untouched by bare hands until it reaches the consumer’s cup.
The Tea-Making Process
Visiting Handunugoda offers a unique opportunity to witness the entire tea-making process from leaf to cup. Here’s what you can expect to see:
- Harvesting: Watch as skilled workers carefully select and cut the finest tea buds.
- Withering: Freshly plucked leaves are spread out to dry naturally, reducing moisture content.
- Rolling: The withered leaves are gently rolled to release essential oils.
- Oxidation: For black teas, the leaves are left to oxidize, developing their characteristic flavor.
- Firing: The tea is heated to stop oxidation and remove any remaining moisture.
- Sorting and Grading: Finally, the tea is sorted and graded based on leaf size and quality.
Beyond White Tea
While the Virgin White Tea is undoubtedly the star attraction, Handunugoda produces a wide variety of other exceptional teas:
- Ceylon Souchong: A smoky black tea reminiscent of Chinese Lapsang Souchong.
- Sapphire Oolong: A rare oolong tea with a delicate flavor profile.
- Suicide Brew: Don’t let the name scare you! This is actually a strong, invigorating black tea.
- Seasonal Flush Teas: Limited edition teas produced only during specific times of the year.
The Handunugoda Experience
A visit to Handunugoda is more than just a tour; it’s an immersive experience that engages all your senses:
The Tour
Guided tours of the estate are available daily. You’ll walk through the lush tea gardens, visit the factory to see the production process, and end with a tasting session where you can sample various teas produced on the estate.
The Museum
The estate houses a small but fascinating museum that showcases antique tea-making equipment and offers insights into the history of tea production in Sri Lanka.
The Tasting
No visit is complete without a tea tasting session. Here, you’ll learn to appreciate the subtle nuances of different tea varieties, guided by expert tasters who can help you discern the unique characteristics of each brew.
Sustainability and Community
Handunugoda isn’t just about producing great tea; it’s also committed to sustainable practices and community development. The estate uses organic farming methods, minimizing the use of chemicals and promoting biodiversity.
Moreover, the estate provides employment to many local families, contributing significantly to the area’s economy. They also support local schools and healthcare initiatives, embodying the idea that good business and social responsibility can go hand in hand.
Planning Your Visit
Handunugoda Tea Estate is located in Tittagalla, about 15 kilometers from the historic city of Galle. Here are some tips for planning your visit:
- Best Time to Visit: The estate is open year-round, but the dry season (December to April) offers the most pleasant weather.
- Duration: Plan to spend at least 2-3 hours to fully enjoy the tour and tasting.
- What to Wear: Comfortable walking shoes and light, breathable clothing are recommended.
- Booking: While walk-ins are welcome, it’s best to book in advance, especially during peak tourist season.
Beyond Tea: Other Attractions
While the tea experience is the main draw, Handunugoda offers more:
- Cinnamon Experience: Learn about the cultivation and processing of Ceylon cinnamon.
- Rubber Tapping: Witness the fascinating process of rubber extraction.
- Bird Watching: The estate is home to a variety of bird species, making it a paradise for bird enthusiasts.
A Taste to Remember
As you sip the exquisite Virgin White Tea, gazing out over the verdant tea fields with the distant murmur of the Indian Ocean in your ears, you’ll understand why Handunugoda is more than just a tea estate—it’s a sensory journey through Sri Lanka’s rich agricultural heritage.
Whether you’re a tea connoisseur or simply a curious traveler, a visit to Handunugoda Tea Estate offers a unique glimpse into the world of premium tea production. It’s a place where tradition is honoured, innovation is embraced, and every cup tells a story of dedication, expertise, and the bountiful terroir of southern Sri Lanka.
So, the next time you find yourself in the southern coast of Sri Lanka, take a detour from the beaches and make your way to Handunugoda. Immerse yourself in the world of fine teas, and who knows? You might just discover your new favorite brew in this little piece of tea paradise.