Journal index

Every road we've followed.

Stories grouped by region — dip in wherever you're headed next, or click through in order for the full slow lap around Sri Lanka.

Trincomalee & Arugam Bay
East Coast

Trincomalee & Arugam Bay

Whale watches, silent surf towns, and the slow route inland.

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Haputale, Ella & Nuwara Eliya
Hill Country

Haputale, Ella & Nuwara Eliya

Mist, monkeys, tea factories that still weigh by hand.

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Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa & Dambulla
Cultural Triangle

Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa & Dambulla

Rock fortresses, cave temples, and 1500-year-old graffiti.

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Yala & Udawalawe
Southern Plains

Yala & Udawalawe

Leopards, elephants, and the etiquette of a good safari.

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The train line to Ella
Rail

The train line to Ella

Seven hours across mountains — a carriage-by-carriage guide.

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Kandy & the Perahera
Central

Kandy & the Perahera

A city built around a tooth relic and a monsoon festival of fire.

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The Sri Lankan pantry
Anywhere

The Sri Lankan pantry

Hoppers, kottu, sambol — a friendly primer with kitchen visits.

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